Saturday, April 19, 2008

Saint Omer

On the way to Saint Omer we stopped by the Chateau de Tilques, a former grand residence now recast as an anachronistic hotel and restaurant in a genteel effort to meet its tax obligations. All things considered, this turned out to be the highlight of the day.
Saint Omer is billed in the guide books as "...refined and seemingly untouched..." While we didn't find much in the way of refinement, untouched abounded everywhere. Two major features on offer are the ruins of the 15th century Saint Bertin Abbey in the east end and l'église Saint-Sépulcre, in the center of town, that has been untouched almost to the point of extinction. There are some better maintained buildings in town but, in general, the city had a run down air and little that qualified as charming (a euphemism for small and kitschy) or quaint (a synonym for hopelessly impracticable).
Overall, this area of France majors in ugly churches and my location scout, seen here in her official red uniform, was hard pressed even to find lunch.


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