Domfront, France 2018

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Domfront is a fortified town with many surviving towers along remaining sections of the ramparts, the majority of which can be seen along the Rue des Fossés Pusson. Situated in the Orne Department of the Lower Normandy Region the town is in the National Parc Naturelle. 

The current Catholic church, St. Julien's, was built between 1924 and 1926 and replaced the earlier eighteenth century church damaged by a storm. The church, which was consecrated in 1933, has a square plan in Byzantine style and the interior decoration is largely mosaic tile. Following premature deterioration the church was closed in 2006 and underwent a major restoration from 2011 to 2013 before reopening.

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Another notable sight in town are the ruins of the medieval castle which was besieged by William the Conqueror, duke of Normandy in 1049. In 1092, the town's people revolted against the owner, Robert II de Bellême, and transferred their allegiance to the third son of William the Conqueror, Henri Beauclerc. Henri went on to become duke of Normandy and later, the King of England. Turbulent times continued for the next six centuries with ownership changing numerous times resulting from the location on the border of Normandy and Brittany.
In the adjacent community of Domfront-en-Poiraie is Notre-Dame-sur-l'Eau, the church of Lonlay Abbey priory. Built between the eleventh and twelfth centuries, it suffered many insults over the ensuing centuries but remains a key example of architecture in this region, although practically nothing of the original structure remains. 
Lonlay Abbey itself is in the nearby village of Lonlay and its construction likely took place from the middle of the eleventh century until about 1100. Typically Benedictine in style, it is a good example of Norman Romanesque architecture. More pictures here.

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Goxwiller, France - June 8, 2012

After leaving Obernai we had a light driving day to our next port of call which was Colmar. Between the two, there were three small towns all ending in ...willer so we decided to investigate.
First up was Gertwiller. Probably something to see here but  almost every street was torn up (probably for cobbling) raising the expected parking difficulty from exasperating to impossible. We moved on.
Zelwiller was next. Less than a one-horse town, there appeared to be no compelling reason for anyone to stop here even had there been a convenient parking spot. So onto number three - Goxwiller.
First mentioned in 920 CE as Getenesvillare, then as Gokesvilre, Gotesviller and finally as Goxwiller it just about makes a one-horse town but is nicely maintained and we found convenient parking adjacent to the fire station.
With a population near 800 souls the town is known for its viticulture and for traditional artisan trades such as carpentry, clogs, leather tanning and book binding. In recent decades efforts have been made to renovate the village to encourage tourists
A relaxing place to spend an hour or so. More pictures here.

Loches, France - June 15, 2011

Loches is a small market town in the Indre-et-Loire department of the Centre region. It has actually increased its population by about one third over the last two centuries to its present count of 6,400 persons.
The town originally formed around a monastery that was founded about 500 CE by St. Ours and which belonged to the Counts of Anjou from 886 until 1205. It was subsequently seized from King John of England by Philip Augustus and, from the middle of the 13th century until after the time of Charles IX of France, the castle was a residence of the kings of France.
Loches lies close to the river Indre and at the northern foot of a rocky prominent on which was built the Château de Loches. Inside the 13 foot thick wall surrounding the complex is the collegiate church of St. Ours, the royal lodge and the donjon.
Designed and occupied by Henry II of England and his son, Richard the Lionheart, the castle stands 100 feet above the Indre.
After its capture by the French, it was upgraded into a huge military fortress. The castle became a favorite residence of Charles VII of France and later was converted for use as a State prison by his son, King Louis XI. During the American Revolution King Louis XVI used the castle of Loches as a prison for captured Englishmen.

During the French Revolution, the château was ransacked and although some restoration was begun in 1806 significant areas exist just as ruins. The 11th-century donjon is a massive 76 feet by 51 feet with walls more than 9 feet thick and its four storeys stand 121 feet high with each floor used as a single room.
Some mixed light industry exists around town including distilling, tanning and
pottery making along with more modern ventures including electronics and automobile equipment. More pictures here.

June 5, 2009 - Anduze, France

The National Park of Cevannes is 30 or 40 miles north of the Mediterranean coast in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. This hilly area is part of the Massif Centrale range and is largely the domain of wild boars and hikers. The river Gardon d'Anduze flows down one of the steep valleys and the little town of Anduze, population 3000, is perched on its bank.
In addition to the obligatory narrow streets, lined with medieval houses and a handful of interesting squares, there is a 1320 CE clock tower, remnants of the original defensive ramparts and a grain hall dating from the 15th century. With a curious pagoda-fountain dating from the 17th century thrown in for good measure, Anduze is a great place to walk around. Our visit was marked by intermittent rain and cool temperatures but was nonetheless hugely enjoyed.
The history of Anduze is forever entwined with the Protestant cause in the ferocious 16th and 17th century Religious Wars that effectively split France. The Duc de Rohan led a group of Protestant force in the area around 1625. and much of this ignominious period is memorialized in a museum in the nearby village of Le Mas Soubeyran.
Take a picture tour right here.

May 31, 2009 - Rosans, France

Mooching along the D994 road on the way to our next destination we spied a tiny village on a hill and promptly swerved off the road into a narrow lane to check it out. Turned out that this was Rosans, a village dating back to Roman times, with a current population of just over 500 souls. The area is known as The Baronnies and is thought to have been populated, in large part, by retiring Roman soldiers who were granted small parcels of land - an early form of a pension one supposes. Until quite recently, the area population had been in decline for several centuries due, it seems, to harsh winter weather and a paucity of economic opportunities. Its recent "rediscovery" by holiday home buyers has possibly stopped or even reversed the depopulation trend, as the Mercedes set move in. By and large, Rosans is quite rundown although the stone buildings have survived the lack of maintenance remarkably well. There is an active church in the surprisingly large main square and a bustling cafe in another corner, populated by wine quaffing yuppies. Like other locations in this rustic area of France, Rosans enjoys an average of 300 days of sunshine each year while the altitude of 2500 feet or so, keeps the temperature pleasantly cool in summer. Click here for a quick tour.

May 28th, 2009 - Briançon, France

Just three miles west of La Vachette is the vibrant city of Briançon. Built at the confluence of the Durance and Guisanne rivers, its function as an Alpine crossing point between France and Italy fairly guaranteed its historic importance in medieval times. Briançon enjoys an average of 300 days of sunshine each year and, at an altitude of around 4,000 feet, it is the highest town in the entire European Union.
Today there are essentially two cities - the upper one that preserves the 17th century Vauban fortifications and the lower city that extends along the banks of the River Durance and contains, among other features, the market. Total population is around 12,000.Briançon was granted municipal privileges by a charter signed by Dauphin Humbert II in 1343. In 1692 Louis XIV's omnipotent military engineer Vauban, reinforced the town walls and began a sequence of fortified extensions further and further up into the mountains. This trend actually continued into the 1930s when Briançon became part of the Maginot line in preparation for WWII.Two of the major streets in the old town have a sizeable gutter running down the center, known as gargouilles, that originally carried effluents down to the rivers.This less than attractive cargo has since been replaced by wholesome mountain water. Only one other town in France - St Martin-Vésubie in the Alpes-Maritimes - has a similar feature.
If you ever find yourself in this part of France do give Briançon a look. To see more now, click here.